#Jollofgate! That is the thread that had me checking my social media account more than usual last week. Africans, mainly from the west were abuzz! Earlier this year, celebrity chef Jamie Oliver had published his interpretation of Jollof Rice and as you may guess, it varied from what many consider to be the “traditional” version of Jollof. Many of the comments and blog posts on the recipe were comical and light-hearted, but there were quite a few posts that insinuated that by creating a version, that varied from the norm Chef Jamie had committed a huge abomination and offended a continent. But was the hysteria warranted?
On the eve of 2012, I blogged about why African food is missing from the worlds plate (Read it here). After looking at annual food reviews and New Year predictions, I was disheartened by the exclusion of African cuisine. At that time, only a handful of food bloggers were discussing African food and in my neck of the woods, food outlets providing dishes from the continent were few and far in-between. Fast forward a very short 3 years later and the time for African food has arrived. The word is spreading and Africans are sharing recipes and their cultural relevancy on social media and blogs. Restaurants and food outlets are on the increase (even my local farmer’s market has East African Sambusas), and African food is rapidly becoming the gastronome’s next frontier. What an opportunity for us to shine and highlight the diversity in our cuisine! Chef Jamie’s publication and the attention we have allowed it to get only serves as reminder that the time for African food is now. Let’s embrace it!
As I read through the comments, several themes emerged strong:
Chef Jamie’s recipe was not “authentic” as he uses ingredients not generally used for Jollof.
“Although mum makes a delicious bean stew, there is something in auntie’s variation that makes my mouth water.”
Part of the beauty and enigma of cooking is the ability to combine ingredients, seasonings and spices to create a masterpiece. Many screamed that Chef Jamie added ingredients like cherry tomatoes, parsley and coriander to his Jollof. As a Dietitian, I want to high-five him for sneaking in those veggies. With the rapid rate of urbanization on the continent, our intakes of antioxidant rich, disease busting vegetables and fruits are decreasing. Amongst other diseases, obesity, diabetes, hypertension and digestive cancers are on the increase. We need to eat more vegetables and since tomatoes are an essential part of Jollof, I see no harm in throwing in some cherry tomatoes. Given Chef Jamie’s passion for health and recipe makeovers, I think he should have snuck in more vegetables like carrots and peas…..truly zap of the dish with multiple nutrients!
A favorite seasoning in many African kitchens
- He did not use Maggi
Really????? There is a huge uproar that Chef Jamie seasoned his Jollof with simple ingredients that many of us can pronounce and recognize; Parsley, coriander, cloves, pepper, scotch bonnet and lemon. We want him to use the “cube” because despite it not even originating in Africa is beloved in our “traditional” cooking. Given the high amount of sodium in the cube and the ever-increasing rates of hypertension on the continent, I generally recommend that clients suffering from high blood pressure stay away from it or at the very minimum drastically reduce its use. Beyond the sodium, traditional cooking is about fresh, natural, whole ingredients and the last time I checked, inosinate, guanylate and ferric pyrophosphate are generally not found in most pantries and yet they are on the ingredient panel of some cubes. The seasonings Chef Jamie proposes in his recipe actually promote health and decrease the intakes of harmful substances. What’s so wrong with that?
- He served it all wrong
Yeah, well….on that one Chef Jamie, I kinda agree with everyone. That was not the most spectacular presentation of Jollof I have ever seen. But then again, cooking is an art and presentation is therefore subject to the artist’s interpretation. So, while it is not my favourite way to put Jollof on a plate, I respect your “piece of art.”
- In a few years, Chef Jamie’s will be the official recipe
Perhaps the one thing that got me writing this opinion piece were the comments around the fear that in a few years, Chef Jamie’s recipe will be the official one. While his celebrity status may elevate the recipe, it will never become the official one if more of us Africans stand up to tell our stories. The internet had made the world smaller and at the click of a button you too can share your recipe with the world. Bottom line, if you do not like Chef Jaimie’s recipe, write your own (and publish it). After all as one of my favourite sayings goes, ““Until the lion tells his side of the story, the tale of the hunt will always glorify the hunter” which in this case I will translate as “Until you publish your interpretation of Jollof, the world will glorify Chef Jamie’s.”
Let’s get cooking (and publishing!) Start a blog today.
Here’s to your health!
